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Wednesday, November 11

Fortunately, the power outage (which I understand made the national news because it affected a huge part of Brazil) ended about midnight. So, with air conditioning back on we got a decent sleep. In the morning we had an easy trip back to the airport and a stress free check in. The flight was beautiful with a quick stop to pick up passengers in Curitiba (so we got our first look at the city from the air.) As we approached Foz do Iguacu, we could see the river below — a huge snake doubling back on itself through the rain forest. It is very brown due to the silt from the red soil.

We landed in a torrential rain — at an airport where you go down the portable stairs and cross the tarmac. Some airline employee stood at the bottom of the stairs handing us huge open umbrellas which were collected as we entered the terminal.

The drive from the airport to downtown is about 15 minutes — through a fairly unattractive large town/small city sprawl. My favorite sign along the way was for the “artificial nude beach” — I never could decide whether it was the beach or the nudes that weren’t real.

At the hotel we immediately booked full day tours for the next two days, changed into dryer clothes (a constant on this trip) and went to find a good meal. It turned out to be our first Brazilian steak and it was delicious. Then we walked a long way on the main street. It was interesting mostly because for the first two blocks almost every store was a pharmacy. After that came two blocks of shoe stores and then lots of blocks of clothing stores. It seemed like a strange marketing strategy.

Decided on a very quiet evening as tomorrow at the Argentinean side of the falls will be quite demanding — lots of walking.

Thursday, November 12

Everything about the day — even the rainstorm while we were on an open bed truck in the rain forest — was larger than life and amazing. Our tour companions were two middle aged men — one from San Francisco and one from Arizona — a young man from England who is exploring Brazil for about 6 months, a middle aged woman from Germany who took a year’s sabbatical from teaching to back pack around several South American countries, and a young couple who went off on their own the minute we reached the park so we never got to know anything about them.

We had an excellent English speaking guide who has been doing this trip to the falls for 8 years and says he never gets tired of it — his enthusiasm showed.

We first walked along the upper trail that borders the top of the falls for about 4km. Each view is more stunning than the one before. Sometimes we were standing directly above where the water dropped over the edge and just a few feet back. I took pictures looking straight down. One of the amazing things was to watch the birds and the butterflies dart around in the mist and the falling water. The sheer scale and power is beyond words.

We then took the lower trail down to the base of the falls (easy steps — nothing like what Jeremy Irons had to climb up in “The Mission.”) At the base, we put our shoes, cameras and other personal belongings into giant (supposedly water tight) plastic bags and were issued life jackets. Some people just stripped down to their bikinis rather than leaving on street clothes — a rather smart move. We loaded into rubber boats for our river trip up to and into the falls. It never felt anything but perfectly safe — but it was a wild ride through the huge waves at the bottom of the falls and into the edge of the falls themselves. Needless to say, it wasn’t possible to take many pictures — you just had to be there.

We unloaded down river, put on our relatively dry shoes, and climbed (stairs again) back up the side to what should have been a beautiful but uneventful open truck ride through the rainforest with an ecologist as guide. However, about 5 minutes into the 25-minute trip the skies simply opened. It was a powerful experience of how the rain forest works — but, by the time we arrived back at the center, we were definitely wetter than we had been after going up to the falls in the boat. Felice and I both changed to “dry” shirts — she actually went into the shop and bought a new pair of crop pants.

After a quick lunch, we started out on the longest trail which takes you on a walkway about 8 feet above the river clear out to the center of the falls. You are literally standing in the middle of a huge horseshoe of water roaring over the edge in front of you. Once again, the drying out that we had done in the course of the walk was undone in a matter of seconds and we were drenched. But the views and the physical experience of standing in the middle of all that power were well worth it. On the way back from the edge, we passed a bird’s nest that had been built right under the metal grid of the walkway just as two babies hatched and wiggled out of their shells. It was definitely a day of watching miracles in action!

On the subject of wildlife — the butterflies are an experience in themselves. They are everywhere and land on anything — including arms, shoulders, clothes, etc. And, they tend to ride along on a human being for quite awhile. There are many varieties — intense blue, bright orange and red, brown/grey speckled, spotted, and even some that were solid luminescent yellow or lime green that moved in clouds. We also saw a variety of lizards, Quatos (sp???) who look like — hmm, I don’t know how to describe them. You’ll have to wait for the pictures. All the animals are very relaxed about humans and just wander by.

The last bit of the day was an open train ride through more of the park and back out to the entrance buildings. I did take time to make some purchases at the market set up by the Guarneri Indians — much better things than shopping at the tourist places. There really is a serious effort to preserve what is left of the indigenous culture and see to it that tourist money gets back to the tribes.

We were pretty tired when we got back to the hotel, so took some time out to wring out and start drying (almost a lost cause in the humidity) clothes and take a rest before going out for a light supper and a short walk. Friday will begin even earlier, so it is a good night to get some rest.

Friday, November 13

We ate breakfast with Philip, the young Englishman, and gave him information and contacts about Rio as he is heading there today. Then we hauled our luggage (including some fairly damp clothes from yesterday) to the lobby as we were taken directly to the airport at the end of the tour.  Our driver kindly put my canvas back pack on the dashboard so it would dry out in the intense sun.

We only had one other person on the tour — a young man from Columbia who has already traveled a lot and could barely wait to see the falls. We thought he was a student and probably about 20 — turned out later he has been an investment banker for something like 9 years!

Our first stop was Itaipu Dam — Itaipu is the Guarneri word for singing rock — one of the largest hydro-electrical projects in the world providing I think 90 percent of the power for Paraguay and 60 percent of the power for Brazil. It is also a model of a shared project between two countries that not only provides power but also research, ecological conservation and education and community development.

After the dam, we drove to the Bird Park which is primarily an aviary but also a sanctuary. Of course, the most fun is seeing all the Toucans — there are so many different varieties with distinct coloring and physical features. They are also very gregarious and playful — hopping right up to visitors and posing shamelessly. The other birds were remarkable as well and the park is set up to give them as much sense of community as possible. There was a whole pattern of mirrors behind the flamingo pond so that it gave the impression the flock was made up of hundreds of birds rather than probably 30 to 40. That makes them feel safe enough to breed. There were all sorts of exotic species I’d never even heard of — lots of color and plumage. I should note there was also the raggedy peacock I think I have ever seen. A side entertainment at the park was a very good musical group playing traditional Brazilian music — until I realized they had suddenly broken into “Jingle Bells.” It really is bizarre to sit in the middle of a tropical rain forest with the temperature over 100° and humidity to match while “Dashing through the snow…” rings in your head.

The final stop for the day was the Brazilian side of Iguassu Falls. We had, of course, already seen the Argentinean side, but our tour companion, Marcos, had been waiting for years to see the falls and literally gasped when they first came into view. The park on the Brazilian side isn’t as extensive or complex as the Argentinean side, but it is just as spectacular and especially great to be looking from the opposite side to where you were the day before. On the Brazilian side you are really looking at the falls rather than standing above them. And the platform again takes you way out over the water so that you are right in the midst of the falls themselves (getting drenched) and really feeling the power of all this water. What you also get from the Brazilian side is a path that leads along the cliff so that you keep getting different angles on the falls and have the opportunity to see the full scope of the many falls that make up the whole experience. Words just can’t portray what it is like.

We arrived at the airport dripping wet so dried off and changed shirts in the restroom. There is a point where the wet has seeped in so thoroughly there just isn’t much you can do. And once you dry off, it is really hot so you just get damp again. It’s wonderful, but not a climate I could live in!

The flight to Curitiba was uneventful and a nice young woman at the executive bus counter rushed us out to a bus that was just about to leave. The driver promised he would let us know our stop. Well, when we did get off he asked where we were going then insisted on taking us back onto the bus and dropping us off at the corner one block from our hotel so we wouldn’t have a longer walk. Three other men on the bus — all of whom spoke some English — consulted during this last bit about the best way for us to go. In the end, all four waived us on our way with good wishes for a safe journey. What a great introduction to Curitiba!

Our hotel is basic but perfectly satisfactory. We have a 2-bedroom suite with a sitting room that includes refrigerator, sink and microwave. Wi-fi is included as is breakfast. The night clerk, Carlos, who is quite fluent in English has already given us all sorts of assistance and advice. The best part is that we are on the pedestrian only area — it’s fun to people watch from our balcony.

Saturday, November 14

Just about the time you think you’ve used up all the superlatives something else comes along that is really special. We were picked up this morning for our trip on the Paranagua railway — built in 1885 between Curitiba and the coast and passing through the mountains and rain forest on the way. When we got to the station, we were met by Patricia Will. I have been emailing her and discussing family backgrounds since we share a surname. She told us that we had been upgraded from the Litorina to the Executive service — I think because there were only two groups going that day. Well, the Executive Car looks normal from the outside but is all done up in the style of a Copacabana Hotel lounge inside — very Deco glamorous with leather lounge chairs, velvet couches, chandeliers and other decadent touches. We were served champagne by our bi-lingual guide before leaving the station and then received a light breakfast and beverages as we traveled in great style through some spectacular scenery. She provided excellent commentary and the engineer stopped regularly at scenic points. The one car is the whole train with the engineer in a compartment in front. So, when the views were particularly special out the front, we were all invited into the cab to enjoy them and take pictures. At one point, the train even stopped for us to get out and see the view. (There were also a bunch of hikers and campers at the lookout.) It was an altogether wonderful trip and we felt we were indulged physically and visually the whole way.

While standing in the cab, I got to talking with a woman from Brasilia who spent a year in high school with a host family in Iowa. We had a wonderful talk about foreign exchange programs, how close we are with our other families and how much we love to travel. We exchanged email addresses and I made her promise she would contact me when she comes to San Francisco.

It turned out that she and her party were returning immediately to Curitiba by car with a friend. So, it ended up we had our guide (the hostess from the train) and driver (the man who had picked us up at the hotel) all to ourselves for the rest of the tour. Carol speaks very good English and is studying so wanted to practice all the way. Leo understands but doesn’t feel comfortable speaking English so Carol interpreted to keep him in the conversation.

It was a fantastic afternoon. We drove from Morretes where we got off the train to Antonina, about 12km away. Antonina is an old and charming coastal town with brightly painted colonial buildings and narrow winding streets. We had lunch at the “best” restaurant in town — owned by a woman who came to Brazil from the Netherlands. The lunch started with a dish famous to the region — bareado — that is a stew of meat and onions that has been cooked 24 hours in a cast iron pot sealed closed with a manioc flour and water dough. When you prepare your dish, you mix the stew with manioc flour to thicken it into an almost porridge consistency and then spoon some baked bananas on the side. It was just as delicious as promised. Much to our surprise, that is only the first course followed by terrific fried shrimp and fish, potato salad, rice, fish stew and fresh salad vegetables. It took a lot of discipline to eat just a little of each (we failed on the shrimp!) We were also given a sample of a local alcoholic beverage — I missed the name — but the taste was not unlike sake.

We then toured Antonina and also visited some of the shops. Carol was glad to have two women to shop with and Leo was content to be the driver and patient parker. The town is built around a wonderful colonial church that sits on a hill with a beautiful view of the harbor. After we finished in Antonina, we drove back to Morretes and explored there — another charming town with lots of little squares and brightly painted houses. It’s a favorite excursion day for Curitiba residents. Even though we were still pretty stuffed from lunch, Carol insisted we try the local ginger ice cream. I can’t say no to anything ginger and this was worth making a little extra room.

Our trip back to Curitiba was by car so we got a different look at the rain forest and the mountains, again stopping at one of the highest lookouts. It was great just to be able to talk with these two young people who gladly shared about their own backgrounds, family traditions, experiences and lives. Carol’s other job (though her first love is being a tour guide) is as a biologist in a very large Curitiba hospital that does research and treatment of cancer. She is quite a person. We also exchanged emails because she loves to try recipes from other countries (she’s currently in love with Boston Cream Pie) and specifically wants to try gingerbread.

By today, Felice has developed a pretty intense cold (though Zicam is helping some) so she went straight to bed when we got back to the hotel. I took a short walk in the pedestrian center but am ready for an early night myself.

Sunday, November 15

Today was devoted to the Curitiba Crafts fair — much larger than the one we visited in Rio and, in my opinion, more interesting as well. While there was a lot of the usual crafts fair type stuff — with, of course, an emphasis right now on Santa Clauses and other Christmas decorations — there were also some very interesting crafts dealers and artisans. I did manage to contribute to the Brazilian economy quite well but, at least, stayed with small and lightweight items. I passed on some antiques that were quite tempting, but my undoing was a woman (I think Japanese heritage) who was selling the handweavings she and her husband do in their studio. I resisted early in the afternoon, but she was still open when we were leaving and I just couldn’t walk away. Her husband (I think Indigenous Brazilian heritage) was also there. I got their information as well and want to share it with the women at Folk Arts in Berkeley.

We had a wonderful meal at a restaurant on a historic square in the middle of the craft fair. We were trying to stumble through ordering when a young woman from the next table leaned over and said, “I’d be glad to help.” She is from Richmond, VA but now lives in Curitiba with her Brazilian husband. She teaches English and they speak English at home because her husband is tentatively planning to go back to the US (where they met) eventually. We ended up having another delightful conversation and exchange of email addresses. I really think before I travel again I need some “business cards” with name, address, telephone and email just to share information.

On the way back to our hotel, we visited the main Roman Catholic cathedral that is quite lovely and wandered through several streets in the historic district. Later in the evening, we went out again for a walk but got caught coming back in a pouring rain complete with thunder and lightning. It was great to watch once we got back inside — but, once again, we were soaked through by the time we got here. There is a theme here!

Monday, November 16

Our first order of business this morning was to take a huge bundle of clothing to the lavenderia. It was definitely time to have it done professionally (like in washers rather than the basin) and start fresh.

We then set out for the tourist bus that goes all around the city and allows extended stops at four places. After several comical attempts at conversations with various people, we found out that the tourist bus runs Tuesday through Sunday. So, a nice driver whose route included the Botanical Garden and a very nice passenger who wanted to chat about all sorts of things took us under their wing.  It turned out that the Botanical Garden was one of the last stops on the circuit, but we got to see some fascinating parts of the city along the way. We had a leisurely walk though the garden though — because it is Monday — some of the gardens and all the indoor exhibitions were closed.

After taking the bus back into the central district, we walked back to the district where the Sunday crafts fair had been intending to eat again at the same restaurant. On the way we finally found a tourist information center and pick up some things that would have been even more helpful a couple of days ago. The restaurant was closed (Monday…) but the information center referred us to a great place across the square that had a buffet of wonderful Brazilian dishes. We visited some galleries and just wandered for the rest of the afternoon.

We picked up the laundry and went through it like each item was a Christmas present! It is wonderful to have clean things — but, even after professional washing and drying they still feel damp and a little musty. It was somewhat cooler today, but the humidity remains very high so damp is in everything.

Tomorrow I will go with the Curitiba planning team to meet the rest of the group at the airport. Felice will take the city tour alone then she will join us for a gathering and get acquainted supper at the Cathedral. I’ll stay with my host family starting tomorrow.  Felice will be here one more night and will leave for home Wednesday.

I have spoken a couple of times with Michael Tedrick, the man from San Francisco who is down here as a missionary, but plans are still somewhat loose for the next 10 days. I’m glad I’m a bit acclimated to the casual approach here. I guess we will be going to Londrina and Cescavel at the end of the week. I just checked and the weather is warming up again everywhere over the next week — back to the mid-90’s. The second half of this trip will be a very different experience from the first half. I’m really excited and open to the possibilities.

More in the next edition.

Paz e bem (Peace and Good)
Melissa

PS — I am picking up a few more words of Portuguese each day and can make out a lot of signs. It is still very difficult to follow what people are saying as it is just too fast. Thank goodness everyone is so friendly and patient.